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Paris was buzzing with news of growing businesses, emerging and innovative designers and grand store openings.
1 The Loewe-Down
After his recent departure from Mulberry, ex-Creative Director Stuart Vevers now plans to expand the shoe offering at Loewe. (Interestingly, Vevers’ first cousin, footwear designer Jonathan Kelsey, was tapped by Mulberry to fill his former position.) Now at Loewe, Vevers is planning a tight, focused collection with 25 styles for pre-spring ‘09, and 10 more for the September/October presentation. "I wanted the shoes to be sexy, but tough and grounded," Vevers said. "Stitched seam work and fringe detailing were lifted from traditional men’s shoes. Oversized, industrial metal chains straight from the do-it-yourself store, but finished in refined polished gold or gunmetal, adorn the front of high-heeled loafers. Masculine riding boots with heavily stitched rubber soles were combined with more feminine clothing to give a tougher ‘off’ look."
What’s in store for the coming collections? Vevers said he wants to "continue to explore the unique heritage and icons of the house, but to make them relevant for the 21st century with surprising, irreverent details."
2 Ladies Who Lunch
The Htel Costes is the place to eat, drink and be seen during Paris Fashion Week, but celebrities were relatively thin on the ground this season, according to an insider from the restaurant. Still, Footwear News spotted several big names during lunch on March 2. Mary-Kate Olsen was puffing on Marlboro Reds and chatting with new beau artist Nate Lowman at a corner table on the terrace. Meanwhile, former Jimmy Choo CEO Robert Bensoussan was enjoying Sunday lunch with his young son. Bensoussan – who is still a shareholder in the successful London-based luxury brand – said he’s now on the lookout for other brands to invest in.
3 Olympian Feet
Oozing old-fashioned sex appeal, London socialite Charlotte Dellal is making big waves with her new Charlotte Olympia footwear collection. The inaugural spring ‘08 line of signature "island" platforms and towering heels has already won the designer several top retail accounts, including Daslu in Brazil and Dover Street Market, London’s hip multibrand showcase. Dellal’s Paris debut at the Crillon Hotel during Fashion Week was just as promising – revered retailer Jeffrey Kalinsky snapped up the line, which retails from $750 to $1,300. "I’m especially happy that I will be selling in the U.S. next season," Dellal told FN. It’s no surprise that the designer is already squarely in the spotlight. Her mother was a model in the 1980s, and sister Alice was recently shot for French Vogue by famed photographer Mario Testino.
4 Inspiration du Monde
It was tartan meets the Royal Windsor clan at Roger Vivier last month. "I know London, but I don’t know Scotland," said Artistic Director Bruno Frisoni, who used tartan as an upper on the Vivier classic pump, evening sandal and cocktail mule, as well as for the lining in his ballerina flats. The designer claimed tartan plaid was purely his feeling of the moment – and perhaps symbolic of the classical-made-current tradition at Vivier.
As for Maloles Miracosta-Antignac,Louboutin Shoes, creative director of the eponymous line, her inspiration came from the work of Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass. "I was looking at his work as I was considering how his colors, constructions, volume and space could translate into my designs," she said. "I am very interested in the 3-D aspect, as shoes are objects, and it’s all about working with proportions, colors, textures and the fit on the human form." Maloles said this season is marked by "illusion and puzzlement, as the real encounters the unexpected," where pompoms and sculptural bows, as well as other "found objects," add a playful side to scarlet, royal-blue and black styles.

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