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Miuccia Prada’s artistic vision is an altogether different one. The only certain thing about a Prada collection is that it will be strange, brilliant, sometimes downright ugly and often prophetic. This season she produced a dark fairytale collection that seemed to be inspired by the art nouveau fairytales of illustrator Arthur Rackham.
In a circular room hand-painted with tangled foliage, Prada’s dark fantasy floated on sheer organzas painted with fairies and flowers in shades of greens. Even some of the shoes had carved fairytale heels on the multi-coloured platforms reminiscent of ’70s Biba. Plaid-checked bell bottoms and tights repeated the art nouveau via the ’70s vibe.
Angela Missoni followed the artistic path with the signature Missoni prints and knits taking on a rather tribal feel. The tropical mood evoked by orchids tucked into the models’ lacquered chignons made sense when the oversized flower prints emerged on the catwalk splashed on tops and gowns.
The exotic and tribal also emerged at Etro with a mix of ethnic jackets, embroidered skirts, patchwork knits and bright caftans in beautiful prints taken from slices of semi-precious stones. Etro’s wonderful hippie melange of pieces, completed with metal decorated belts and bags, would thrill the wealthy traveller attracted to exotic climes.
Donatella Versace’s collection showed the incredible transition she has made in the past 10 years since her brother, Gianni, was killed. Her collection was so utterly wearable and so alluring that you marvelled at her aesthetic and personal transformation.
It was clean glamour without even a whisper of bling or vulgarity. She began with classy beiges and caramels in safari-styled shirts,Christian Louboutin Shoes, skirts, jackets and shorts of fluid-washed silks and butter-soft leathers. Those were followed by luscious jewel-coloured silk pieces that mastered the contemporary taste for subtle volume rather than body hugging forms. Her finale was a rainbow of coloured jersey gowns that flowed over the bodies of the gorgeous glossy girls. Not a rhinestone or Medusa head in sight.
The sparkle came from Giorgio Armani, whose evening wear was full of subtle bedazzlement. But why all the short puffy pants with a twisted rosette at the knee? The models, who included Australian Alexandra Agoston O’Connor, looked like a sparkly band of gypsy princesses with glittering headscarfs and fringed shawls. There was plenty of razzle-dazzle at Emporio Armani, ideal for pretty young ingenues who could sport satin shorts and a sparkly singlet.
At Pucci, designer Matthew Williamson has mastered the jetsetting heritage and swirling prints of Italian aristocrat Emilio Pucci. For this spring-summer collection his jetset girl took a trip through the US, hence the somewhat Minnehaha fringing and carved patterned leather. There were some lovely pieces in the collection and some fabulous prints, but as a whole maybe as peripatetic as his imagined traveller.
At Gucci, Frida Giannini talked about a rock chick. However, it was not her predecessor Tom Ford’s sexy siren but a more retro ’50s rock’n'roll girl.
Black-and-white prints were the strong graphic theme, with bright yellow and rose pink for highlights. Full skirts and cute jackets in pink or black patent worked well. But the oversize black-and-white florals became more costume than catwalk in the evening gowns. (That’s why it worked brilliantly for Cecil Beaton’s black-and-white scene in My Fair Lady).
On the accessories front, Giannini captured the rock chic vibe perfectly with wonderfully squashy bags and super sexy patent shoes with spiky heels that will have the fashionistas going nuts.
Perfect waterproof warrior woman wear for stalking taxis in the rain.

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