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Style pundits are predicting the death of the logo. But such reports, argues Elisabeth King, are premature.
Instant analysis is one of the plagues of our era. Take a story in the New York Times late last year which reported that luxury goods companies weren’t keen to slap massive logos on their wares any more. "For the first time in decades," claimed the writer, "Chanel handbags were almost totally bare of big initials." But we only have to look back nine years to remember a time when logos turned similarly shy.
Industry observers like David Scotland, then the European director of Hiram Walker, said: "A few years ago, it might have been considered smart to wear a shirt with a designer’s logo embroidered on the pocket.
Frankly, it now seems naff." And American journalist Shelly Reese wrote: "Americans with Calvin Klein splashed across their hip pocket aren’t pushing grocery carts full of Perrier down the aisles anymore. Instead, they are sporting togs with labels like Kmart’s Jaclyn Smith and manoeuvring carts full of Kroger Co’s Big K soda. Welcome to the private label decade."
But thanks to booming stockmarkets only two years later, label fever re-emerged and the logos of the late ’80s and early ’90s were minuscule compared to the ones of the new millennium.
Many of the reasons cited for forecasting the demise of the logo in 1993 are being recycled now: a world still shaking from recession,Christian Louboutin Sale, war and trouble in the Middle East; a consumer backlash against conspicuous consumption; and the widespread availability of cheap fakes hardly distinguishable from the real thing.
What really happened is that consumers embraced the cheap as well as the extravagant for the rest of the ’90s. Supermarkets and mass retailers like Kmart and Target provided people of all incomes with essentials. Luxury goods companies like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Christian louboutin, Prada, Diesel and the like supplied bags and clothes that allowed buyers to purchase a lifestyle and an attitude.
Just because this season’s logos have become smaller does not mean that people have come to their senses en masse. The move could be nothing more than a fashion cycle.
Logos were becoming so big and ubiquitous that even in a peaceful and more prosperous world it is doubtful that they could have retained their popularity.
Walking through Bangkok airport in early October, even captive duty-free shoppers like me were visibly "over" the giant CCs, Fs, LVs and Gs on display. Perhaps it is the fashion industry itself that has chosen to change its reliance on logos because of falling sales.
According to Juliet Schor, author of The Overspent American: "The movement away from logos goes beyond 9/11. It’s tied to a larger resistance to branding strategies and connected to individuality, to rejecting the corporate definition of who you are."

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