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The bags embroidered with still lifes of fruits and the workmanship of each piece were already impressive. But the collection was shown in a series of animated projections by Silvio Muccino, a 23-year-old Roman cineaste, who succeeded in re-creating Caravaggio’s universe with models, as Christian louboutin captured the artistry of light and shade in her designs. After several seasons of embracing sports and rock stores and trying to give his collections a street cred, Giorgio Armani moved his Emporio line closer to the original spirit of his main collection. The show was an ode to all the things Armani stands for: jackets, now cut shorter with a defined torso; ease, although the silhouette was brought closer to the body; and detail, especially a light play. That light could be sparkle inserted in a sweater, a pin beaming from a lapel or just the sheen of deep-pile velvet. As there was only a sprinkling of jeans with bright sweaters, velvet became the new denim: used for classic suits and for jackets printed with abstract patterns, and generally softening up a collection that put this Emporio line back on fast track. Mixing sport and glamour with insouciant panache, Valentino, under its parent company, Marzotto, is making his menswear coherent with his vision. Sure, the designer himself may not wear the new pants, cut slightly loose at the crotch, but they freshened a pinstriped suit. Mostly, the tailoring in houndstooth check or the ever-present velvet was insinuated among more relaxed pieces. The overall theme of the show was a casual luxury, as a sleek alpaca coat, thick knits with a maritime look and leather jackets intricately worked or with fur fronts took the collection up to haute levels. And to show that next week’s Paris couture was on their minds, Valentino left to catch a plane right after the show with his partner Giancarlo Giammetti saying: "We seem to have a Valentino collection every three days!" When a roller-blader raced down the runway to open Roberto Menichetti’s show on Tuesday, it pointed up the general lack of sportswear on Milan runways. Since sport is such a defining part of most men’s lives, Menichetti was smart to mirror that reality by mixing techno jackets with pinstriped flannel pants or loose, stitched sports trousers with tailored jackets. The idea of mixing these separate elements, rather than melding, seems fresher than the 1990s cashmere track suits or suede flying jackets. Menichetti has a feel for the active body, and his strength was that as well as show-casing sporty leather pants or high-performance ski jackets. He made the short tailored coats, a chalked striped blazer worn with pinstriped pants and even a grass-green velvet blazer seem fit for the formal life of an action man. Etro is famous for its wacky and colorful shows. This season was no exception, and although it did not seem to take forward Kean Etro’s mix of tweeds, cords and prints in a colorful melange, the show was funky and fun. The models were victims of eager car-wash operators, who pounced on them as they emerged from the world’s most colorful spinning brushes in pink and green. It all added up to Etro’s fabrics used in wel-tailored pieces where the seams of a coat left raw or inset with a flower print took the stuffiness out of classics.
Alessandro dell’Acqua has always had something of the night about his collections. The show he sent out was still rich and dark in its textures and colors, but he added a buttery cream, which seems to be a Milan trend, as well as pepper and salt tweed or tiny bird’s-eye check for jackets. This was a slick show to tick off the trends from a well-tailored peacoat, low-slung loose pants and fine knits from zippered cardigans through fluffy mohair.
Moschino, in a showroom presentation, showed tailoring in corduroy, striped and plaid wools, or even tweed with hand-painted decoration. Witty accessories included neckties whorled into a rose to make a buttonhole pin. At Bally,Christian Louboutin Shoes, sporty jackets in oiled leather and waxed suede complemented its signature shoes and accessories such as totes with the Bally crest or more formal briefcases with ultra-discreet logo. Tod’s expanded its accessories to include knitted caps in autumnal colors, luxurious cashmere and leather gloves, tooled belts and bold and practical bags. They joined the shoes, which included sporty styles smartened up with patent leather in country colors such as brown, umber and mustard. *** Suzy Menkes is the fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune.

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